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Saddir Khan

Writer's picture: OLIVIER BOËLSOLIVIER BOËLS

I was walking with Nísia, in a park of Agra. We discovered that the place was frequented especially by young Indians on their honeymoon, who were looking for a space to be able to flirt, far from the eyes of their family or other people. A very unique and peaceful place, away from the hustle and bustle of the Taj Mahal.


I was looking for a path to reach the bank of the Yamuna River. As I couldn't find it, I stopped at a kiosk to ask if there was a way through the park. There, I came across Saddir Khan, who didn't speak a word of English. I was immediately captivated by his deep gaze. The face also brought up innumerable images and thoughts. Genghis Khan, the Silk Road, the Mughal people, Marco Polo etc. I had in front of me a living manifestation of a very ancient history. With a name like Khan, the chance of being a descendant of the Emperor, was good, to say the least.


Saddir me informou que não havia passagem por aqui que levava ao Yamuna. Continuei então meu caminho. A imagem do Saddir, me acompanhava. Seria tão bom saber um pouco mais sobre ele. Decidi voltar e bater um papo com ele. Como ele era um rapaz muito forte, perguntei a ele que tipo de atividade ele praticava.

- “Kushti”

Kushti ou Koshti é uma forma de luta que teria raízes na religião Zoroastrian, considerada uma das religiões mais antigas do mundo, praticada até hoje. Mais tarde, na época do Império Mogol, o Koshti Perse, recebeu a influencia da luta tradicional Indiana, Malla Yuddha. Uma luta que sempre achei interessante, por ter esse lado quase monástico, onde o noviço entrar num Akhada, (lugar de treinamento de artes marciais).

_ “Você gostaria de conhecer a Akhada onde eu pratico?”

_ ”infelizmente, eu estou indo embora de Agra, iniciando minha volta para o Brasil. Mas tenho plano de voltar o próximo ano.”

_ “Nesse caso, vou te deixar meu numero de telefone. Me liga, quando vem para Agra novamente.”


Saddir informed me that there was no passage through here, leading to the Yamuna.

So I continued on my way. Saddir's image stuck to my thoughts. It would be so nice to know a little more about him. I decided to go back and have a chat with him.

As he was a very strong boy, I asked him what kind of activity he did.

- “Kushti”

Kushti or Koshti is a form of fighting that would have roots in the Zoroastrian religion, considered one of the oldest religions in the world, practiced to this day. Later, at the time of the Mughal Empire, the Koshti Perse was influenced by the traditional Indian wrestling, Malla Yuddha.

A fight that I always found interesting, for having this almost monastic side, where the novice enters an Akhada, (place of spiritual or martial arts training, depending on what people are practicing).

_ “Would you like to meet the Akhada where I practice?”

_ ”unfortunately, I am leaving Agra, starting my return to Brazil. But I have plans to come back next year.”

_ “In that case, I'll leave you my phone number. Call me when you come to Agra again.”

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